Beating the Crowds in Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone National Park has such an amazing variety of scenery and wildlife that it is not surprising why people travel from around the world to visit. We have been fortunate enough to go to Yellowstone over a dozen times over the years and every visit has been as unique as the wildlife that we have seen. There have been times when trying to see the park has been a frustrating experience as the cars and RV’s turn the few roads that traverse the park into virtual parking lots. Joining the crowds at Old Faithful and the Grand Prismatic Lake can make it feel more like you are waiting in line at an amusement park rather than enjoying the beauty of one the most spectacular places on earth. Unless you enjoy people watching, there a few tips that should help you have a more enjoyable experience.

Magestic Falls
Amazing Waterfall in Yellowstone
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Beauty along the Roadside
  1. Get Off of the Roads – If you want to have a truly memorable experience, talk to the rangers and get a map of the various hiking trails that can be found throughout the park. The rangers will also be able to provide guidance as to which trails should be avoided due to bears or other predators that might be active in the area. Although everyone wants to see wild animals in their natural environment, having a close encounter with a grizzly bear is something that you definitely want to avoid. There are trails to suit almost anyone’s hiking capabilities from the very youngest to the older among us. There are even trails around some of the major attractions that will allow you to see them from angles that other tourists don’t get to see and the lack of crowds will make the experience even better. It is always amazing to us how just jumping onto the trail can transform the park from masses of people into a world of serene isolation.
    IMGP4668
    Getting a Different View
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    All Alone on a Trail

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    Views without the Crowds
  2. Go into the Park Early or Late in the Day – Many of the typical tourists that visit the park start their days around 8:00 am and leave the park in time to catch dinner outside of the park. Not only will getting up before dawn and heading into the park or staying until the sun is setting has the dual benefit of avoiding some of the crowds, but also increases the chances of seeing wildlife as the animals are more active as the sun rises and sets. Also, the earlier that you can get to some of the more popular spots, the fewer people you will have to share the experience with. After all, Old Faithful erupts approximately every hour and a half regardless of the time of day.
    Black Bear
    Brown Bear
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    Tranquil Pond

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    Elk Late in the Afternoon
  3. Enter from the North Entrance – Obviously this depends upon where you might decide to stay, but the northern entrance from Montana is usually a little less busy than the West Yellowstone entrance or the southern entrance near Jackson Hole. Both of those entrances are in Wyoming and the southern entrance is probably the busiest. We love combining the Grand Tetons, Jackson Hole, and Yellowstone into a single visit, but perhaps not during the height of the tourist season, which leads directly to the next piece of advice.
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    Amazing Views
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    Getting Away from the Road

    Rainbow Lake
    Grand Prismatic Lake
  4. Go During the Off-Season – Although the only real off-season is winter, the earlier in spring or the later in autumn you are willing to go, the fewer people will be there along side of you. Personally, our favorite time to visit the park is during fall when the leaves are changing and the animals are actively preparing for winter. You need to be extra cautious when hiking in early spring or fall as the animals can be aggressive as they defend their feeding grounds at the end of the year or their newborns early in the year. As we mentioned before, always check with the rangers, regardless of the time of year, before hiking in the park. Don’t confuse the park with a zoo, these are wild animals who just happen to live in an area that is protected.
    Moose
    Moose in Winter
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    Seeing the Park Differently

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    Hiking in Autumn

Going to Yellowstone National Park should be on everyone’s list to visit at least once in their lives. You will need several days or preferably a week in order to see as much of the park as possible, so bring your camera, binoculars, and your patience. Hopefully these tips will help make your visit a little better, but just realize that their are a lot of other people who want to see a place with such natural beauty. You will never have the park to yourself, but there are ways to make the most of your experience.

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Amazing Scenery in Yellowstone
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It Almost Doesn’t Look Real

 

Weekend Fiasco

We decided to take advantage of the three-day weekend and go to Boulder Colorado, which is very close to Rocky Mountain National Park.  We often tell people not to travel during busy holidays unless there is a compelling reason to do so, such as it is the only opportunity to view something special.  This was not one of those cases and we should have listened to our own advice, we would have been much happier had we done so.  Our goal was to go hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park, view the incredible scenery, hopefully get a glimpse of some wildlife, but mostly get into nature and away from the heat.  That isn’t what ended up happening.

dd1b9270b5cf4139a905cd58a961ec17We should have known how the weekend was going to go when we arrived at our hotel.  We belong to several hotel reward programs, something that anyone who travels frequently knows is an absolute must, and used points to book our room for the weekend.  When we arrived at our hotel, we were told that our room was on the first floor, which is opposite of our preference as we prefer to be on the highest floor possible, we don’t like the noise of people above us.  When we asked for a different room, we were told that we were in a smoking room and those are only located on the first floor.  Our jaws hit the floor.  We both have asthma and absolutely cannot stay in a smoking room, seriously didn’t even think there was such a think as a smoking room in this day and age.  Then the next surprise, because of the holiday weekend, the hotel was sold out and this was the only room they had available.  We were staying at a Hilton property, so we asked if there was another hotel in the Hilton family that might have rooms available, which there was, so they called and confirmed availability.  However, since we were using points, we had to call the corporate offices, have our current reservation cancelled, redeposit the points, and make a new reservation, which was now not in a suite as we had originally booked.  At least we had a room, so after an hour of dealing with the reservations, we were driving to our new hotel.  Once there, the staff couldn’t have been nicer, they upgraded us to a suite and let us know that there was a complimentary shuttle to take us to the Pearl Street Mall, which is the heart of the shopping and restaurant district in Boulder.  We dropped our bags off in our room and took advantage of the shuttle to go grab a bite to eat and enjoy happy hour at West Flanders Brewing Company, which was celebrating having just won two gold medals for their IPA at the Colorado State Fair.  Maybe this weekend wasn’t going to be bad after all.

e3afe369ba5e46a3a7ba642637b4b992The next morning, we woke up and tossed our camelback and camera into the car and headed off towards Rocky Mountain National Park.  As soon as we hit the small town of Lyons, we should have known what we were in for.  Traffic was at a crawl as we made our way closer and closer to the only light in town where the local fire department was collecting donations for the annual “fill the boot” campaign.   Once through the town, our pace picked back up and we thought things were back on track.  As we neared Estes Park, the town just outside of the park entrance, we realized how foolish we were to think that we were going to get away from the crowds and get into nature.  It seemed as though every other person in Colorado had the same idea as us.  Another agonizing traffic jam as we moved through the main street of Estes Park lined with an art and craft fair, there was still some slim hope that people were there to visit Estes Park and not Rocky Mountain National Park.  Once through town, we stopped at the visitor center just outside of the park to grab a trail map and talk to the ranger.  There was a large group of hikers situated at a bus station outside of the visitor center, which we assumed were there for some sort of guided tour, we were about to find out otherwise.   The ranger quickly informed us that there was no parking available at any of the trailheads and that they were busing hikers in to a single trailhead.  Over a thousand hikers on a trail, not exactly our idea of getting into nature.  In addition to going to the park on a holiday weekend, it was also the park’s centennial celebration and there were over fifty-thousand (we heard a hundred-thousand) people at the celebration the night before.  We promptly got back into the car and headed back to Boulder.

ee1f7a7304724cfb97818233b12ab057After dealing with traffic and three hours driving back and forth, we were ready for a glass of wine.  We took the shuttle back to Pearl Street and enjoyed some oysters at Jax Fish House.  Pearl Street Mall is an outdoor shopping area that is closed to anything other than pedestrian traffic, which has a wonderful variety of restaurants, but on a holiday weekend, finding a seat without a reservation isn’t easy.  We were lucky to get to Jax at just the right time, so we were able to get a seat at the bar.  Only moments later there wasn’t a seat left in the place and reservations were booked solid until after 8:30 pm, so we weren’t about to give up our seats until we were done with dinner, which was a wonderful special of shrimp and grits.  It was time to adjust our plans, so we enjoyed some people watching and the street performers that are all over the mall and decided that we would find a place near Boulder to go hiking the next day.

31aaf2e5c08445e5aef70719a59331d9We talked to the staff at the hotel and they recommended a trail that only the locals knew about, so after a quick lunch, we were finally going to get our long awaited hike.  We ended up hiking Sunshine Canyon Trail and then connected to Lion’s Lair Trail, which turned out to be just what we were looking for.  Although there were houses on the surrounding hills, we only came across a couple of other hikers, so we got the tranquility that we were hoping to get.  After several hours of hiking, it was back to the hotel and one final visit to Pearl Street.  We love the oysters at Jax so much that we had to join them for happy hour once again.  We walked the streets and enjoyed our final night of the weekend, finally relaxed and fulfilled.

e408ee1e504547789475c44983b9cfe5Even though we didn’t listen to our own advice and stay away from the crowds, in the end we got what we needed, which was some down time and a chance to get into the mountains.  It certainly wasn’t what we had initially planned, but we were together and that was all that mattered.

Making the Most of a Road Trip

Several years ago, we had taken a road trip to Carlsbad Caverns National Park and when taking long trips by car, we will often stop at places of interest along the way.  On this particular trip our journey took us past Fort Sumner New Mexico, which is the location of the tombstone for the infamous Billy the Kid, as well as Roswell New Mexico, the site of a supposed UFO crash that the government is covering up.  We knew that we wanted to stop at Roswell, but stopping at Billy the Kid’s tombstone was a spur of the moment decision when we saw signs on the road for the attraction.  While visiting the caverns was definitely the purpose of the trip, those added stops made the entire trip that much more interesting.

UFO Warning Sign
UFO Warning Sign
Carlsbad Cavern Formation
Carlsbad Cavern Formation

There isn’t much else to see in Fort Sumner other than Billy the Kid’s tombstone, but for a quick detour while traveling through New Mexico, it was fun to see.  With all of the technology that surrounds us in our modern world, it is somehow relaxing to reflect on just how recent it was that our world was not so complex.  According to legend, Billy the Kid shot and killed twenty-one men, although current belief is that it was only eight men, before being gunned down by Sheriff Pat Garrett in 1881.  From Fort Sumner, we continued on to Roswell and we went from life in the old west to space invaders in the span of less than an hour.

Billy the Kid Tombstone
Billy the Kid Tombstone
Tombstone Close Up
Tombstone Close Up

Do aliens really exist?  We’re not sure if they do, but we are positive that there are more than enough unique individuals on earth that we don’t need to import them from space.  As it turned out, it was the annual UFO Festival when we arrived in Roswell, so the town was crowded with enthusiasts.  After spending a few hours surrounded by people in costume, wearing tin foil hats, ufologists, and vendors trying to sell us UFO memorabilia, we were ready to jump into a spaceship and head to the rugged terrain of Carlsbad.

Aliens at UFO Festival
Aliens at UFO Festival
UFO Festival
UFO Festival

We were just there for a weekend trip, so our time in Carlsbad was fairly short, but we definitely enjoyed the caverns and the town.  One of the more unique things, other than touring the caverns and learning about stalagmites and stalactites, was learning about the bats.  Hundreds of bats make the Carlsbad Cavern their home and at sunset they all fly out over the heads of the tourists seated in the amphitheater to watch the spectacle.  It is quite impressive to see as there are so many of them that they literally look like a swirling black cloud as they zoom off to feed.  The kids enjoyed making bat guano jokes throughout the return trip home, but at least they listened to the ranger talk during the tour.

Giant Bat
Giant Bat
Carlsbad Cavern Formation
Carlsbad Cavern Formation

So, whether making a drive across country or just getting away for the weekend like we did, it is certainly worth making little detours along the way.  As Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “Life is a journey, not a destination” and so should your travels.  Make the most of the journey and you’ll enjoy the destination that much more.

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